Photo/Video Techniques for Cold, Dark Waters
By:
Bob Michelson (page 3)
Macro
photography is the third and quickest method for capturing crisp,
clear photos of even the tiniest creatures and, most importantly,
in the worst possible water conditions.
Technique
for close-up and macro photography in these waters is much the
same. The range of 2:1 through 1:3 extension tubes with a Nikonos
offers the photographer a wide selection of magnifications allowing
photography of anything from a tiny nudibranch up to a fish head
shot of a sea robin and everything in between. A macro lens or
close-up filters with an SLR housed system also works quite well.
The
trickiest part of performing this form of photography is not necessarily
how to light the subject but how to approach the marine life while
still having it look natural on film. If you saw an animal multitudes
larger than yourself charging towards your home, would you sit
still and say cheese? Of course not; and neither do small, delicate
forms of marine life.
The
key is patience. Slowly approach the subject - an inch at a time
if necessary - to allow it to get used to you - this monster -
and allow it time to relax. Once getting the extension tube framer
into position, don't be in a hurry to start blasting off shots.
Wait a little while longer and let everybody get comfortable with
new surroundings. Your patience will be paid with beautiful macro
photographs of marine life in a natural, relaxed state - not twisted
and distressed - looking creatures.
Lighting
technique will save the day in the worst of conditions. It is
possible to take photos in as little as three to four feet of
visibility and get very pleasing images.
Two
primary methods can be used. First, use a single strobe hand-held
directly on top of or next to the framer or the front edge of
your SLR housing lens port. Get it as close as possible to the
very top or side edge of the framer or port by touching with the
front edge of the strobe.
Set
the lens aperture to F-22 and bracket by changing the distance
of the strobe by several-inch increments away from the framer
or port. Remember to always work in a 45-degree to 9O-degree angle
to the subject.
Reposition
the strobe on either side or on top of the framer or lens port
to acquire totally different lighting perspectives. Don't be afraid
to experiment.
Once
you have fine-tuned this technique, you can permanently mount
the strobe using arms and brackets for foolproof shooting - for
whichever lighting angle and distance you found most pleasing.
The
second option is the use of dual strobe lighting. This method
will add much depth to the photos you acquire. A Nikonos camera
system, or other self-contained amphibious system will be much
easier to handle for this and close-up photography than a housed
SLR.
First, attach one strobe to either side of the camera by using
arms or brackets at about a 45-degree angle to the center of the
field goal of the extension tube framer. This strobe will be the
primary strobe, which shall be connected to your Nikonos via a
synch cord. Set the power output to full power, manual. Next,
mount a second strobe that has a "slave" mode to the
other side of the camera in the same fashion. Set this second
strobe to full-power "slave." At the instant your primary
strobe fires, the slave strobe will do the same, yielding macro
photos of the highest quality even in terrible visibility.
Bracketing
can now be accomplished by normal methods of changing the aperture
on the camera lens. But be careful; when utilizing two-strobe
macro photography, it is imperative to have two strobes of the
same power output or guide number to avoid photos with colors
that shift and appear "funny," without true-to-life
color renditions.
All close-up or macro photography uses no available sunlight -lighting
is all by strobe. You must always have the proper amount of light
with you on any dive at all times.
Digital
photography technology now allows for instant gratification during
your dive. You can see your results while you dive to see what
works and what does not before returning to the surface. High
resolution cameras with 4-5 megapixel ratings or higher capture
photo-grade images. For the highest quality digital images use
the RAW format for capture, then convert to either JPEG for internet
usage, or TIFF for photo reproduction. Writing times to digital
storage media varies with manufacturer while using the RAW format,
but your patience will be rewarded with incredible pictures that
you can view immediately! Wide angle, macro and close-up accessories
are available, as well as many well-made housings to accommodate
most common digital camera models.
Cold-water, turbid-water photography can be very rewarding and
quite exciting by using a lot of common sense and basic techniques.
And remember that you can always find variations on rules. The
"don'ts" for one photographer may be the "dos"
for another.
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